Vietnamese whispers have spread like wildfire: the old takeaway on Railway Terrace has gone and Mrs Luu’s had moved in. You might remember Luu’s name from Trang, West End. Luu and Ly sold up and retired but kids John and Frankie, and John’s wife Sylvia, wanted to open something offering good quality Vietnamese. Mrs Luu’s was born.
At their clean-as-a-whistle canteen they serve awesome versions of traditional and tweaked, eat-in and takeaway. The line snakes out the door at peak times, made up mostly of local office workers who hoover up the menu with the same gusto as they once would the chips and Chiko Rolls prior to the Mrs Luu revolution.
A better take on bánh mì in Brisbane we’re yet to find and it’s sold out most days by 2pm. Traditional ‘three little piggies’ ($7) sees a Viet-style French baguette spread with pâté and mayo and stuffed with char siu pork, pickled carrot and daikon – all house-made interpretations of Luu’s original recipes. Vietnamese ham and porchetta, made by a family friend, lie beside ribboned cucumber and stalk-to-tip branches of coriander delivered daily from a Greenbank farm.
Consider gỏi cuốn (rice paper rolls, $6 for two fatties). Barbecue pork or king prawns wrapped with lettuce, coriander, mint, pickled carrot, daikon and rice vermicelli noodles are a meal in themselves. Or go for bún ($10.50), a salad of rice vermicelli, lettuce leaves, cucumber, herbs, bean sprouts, roasted peanuts and house-made nước mắm dressing. We chose traditional pork mince and taro spring rolls with ours, but lemongrass beef, sweet glazed chicken and fried tofu are more modern options available.
Time Out welcomes you to the neighbourhood, Mrs Luu. You’re cheap as chips, a darn sight healthier and a heck of a lot more satisfying than any greasy spoon could ever be.