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Young ambitious chefs are going rogue, taking over anywhere with seats and a hob and the winner, Melbourne, is you

This just in: the Drifter's Table have had a cancellation and have one table or two/four available for their pop-up tonight. It's a seafood fiesta of scallops, smoked eel, King George whiting with spring garlic, and burnt butter cake. Get in while the getting is good. These dinners usually book out in a second. 

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Review

While the Drifter's Table has nothing (officially) to do with Neil Perry's Rockpool Bar and Grill, the three chefs in charge – Robbie Bell, Keelan Gallogly and Rodney Mom – as well as the sommelier and floor boss either currently work at the legendary restaurant, or used to. Which makes this the slickest run pop-up in town. (And, yes, they do all have Rockpool’s blessing.)

Every month they take over a different café, dress it up, crank the James Brown and bang out a well conceived four-course dinner.

Don’t expect Rockpool food, though. The dishes are the chefs’ own. We start with tender rounds of poached and charred octopus with waxy potatoes, parsley pesto and crunchy cupettes of baby cos. It’s followed by juicy pork meatballs, with plenty of lemon zest, parsley and a bright tomato sugo cutting the richness of the meat and cheesy polenta base. What you'll get is anyone's guess, but it’s simple, clever stuff you might expect to find the chefs cooking at home.

“It’s a hobby. Like we’re a band,” Bell tells us. “Only instead of playing, we cook.”

Get the wine match. It’s an all-star Victorian list, and you’ll want the sticky Chambers Rutherglen muscat with your dessert of a crumbled chocolate brownie with tart mandarin cream and crunchy shards of dehydrated mandarin.

Places sell out in about an hour, so get on the mailing list prestissimo.

Who won the Melbourne food awards?

By Gemima Cody   |  

The Drifter's Table details

Address
Around Melbourne, Melbourne 3000

Price $65.00 to $100.00

Date Thu 10 Oct 2013

Open 7pm

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