First published on 11 Feb 2012. Updated on 20 Feb 2012.
Love linguistic chicanery and food tomfoolery? Get to the Commoner. Every month until August, the bad pun and fresh produce-loving fiends at the Fitzroy bistro are holding blockbuster degustations, each based on one beast.
Obeying dinner etiquette, February’s ‘Poultrygeist’ menu starts from the outside and works its way in with a chicken skin crackling, onion jam and cheese crostini. A single grilled scallop follows, the lonely island in a shallow sea of wine enriched chicken jelly with fresh peas and carrot crisps, before moving to pheasant terrine and a Scotch egg – an English stroke-inducer of soft-boiled egg in a minced meat jacket, crumbed and fried.
We’re wary of 'concept' dinners, but when it comes to playing with food, chef Matt Donnelly proves he’s foolish with words only. Bringing up the rear are salty-smoky quail, roasted in a wood-fired oven, and rich duck egg crème brûlée. Each menu ‘premieres’ on the first Thursday of the month for $80 (cough up $30 for matching booze), and runs alongside the normal menu thereafter.
In March, it’s CLAWS! Five courses of nippy things from the deep. Dressing up isn’t required, or requested, but if you want to rock undies and shades for Whiskey Business in June, go nuts.