Everyone jumped on the casual diner train this year, including a lot of Melbourne’s big players. Which has been nothing but good news for diners. There’s no better example than Ombra. Guy Grossi (he of fine dining wonder Grossi Florentino) has come kicking and punching into 2013 with this salumi bar – a modern proposition that encapsulates everything great about Melbourne dining right now. In place of tapestries and linen, you’ll find polished concrete floors, and bareback tables designed for building makeshift meals of all things preserved. In Italian ‘ombra’ means shade, but culturally it means something closer to ‘let’s down tools and drink in the afternoon’. It’s a masthead they’ve embraced. It’s here you’ll find fresh pizza bases for layering up DIY-styles with slices of house-made salumi, including pink pinches of capocollo and spicy fat-flecked salami nobile. There’s also a myriad of tiny snacks for eating street-side on a sunny afternoon. Perhaps it will be charred and sticky lamb ribs, fat friggitelli peppers and tiny buttermilk buns filled with a fresh bite of ‘slaw, crozzled onions and sticky braised intercostals – those tasty muscles from between the ribs. Grossi’s son Carlos is in charge here, keeping the cocktails flowing, and the service on point. It’s a friendly, and fun joint where you can prop it up on a stool at one of the high tables with boatload of Lambrusco – the revival of this retro Italian sparkling red started here – or commandeer the dining room upstairs and get into some of the more serious and freaky wines you’ve come to expect of anywhere Grossi-related. Welcome to the era of fun food.
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