My Mexican Cousin has enjoyed a luke-warm reception since it opened last year. The menu promised ball bustin’ Creole cuisine and a kitchen crew just weren’t singing that sweet Southern USA tune on key. But what’s it like now that chef Simon den Boogert has come back from New Orleans boot camp? You can’t go wrong with a whiskey-Cognac-vermouth-bitters Vieux Carre – the bar here is excellent, and deep-fried balls of white pork sausage (boudin blanc) with paprika mayonnaise are an easy win. As is sweet corn doused in hot-sauce spiked butter. Although it’s not spicy as promised. Neither is the blackened sirloin, served with a heavy hunk of cornmeal cake. It’s perfectly cooked though, and you see a lot of steaks hitting tables populated by silver foxes. And there’s the problem. MMC is the Recital Centre restaurant and nobody wants to get hose-down dirty or rank with garlic pre-theatre. They menu seems restrained to suit, meaning barbecue ribs are pleasant enough, but not rush-back-for worthy. Stick to the bar, order some snacks, and you’re sitting pretty.