Time Out Melbourne

Bistro Gitan is South Yarra in a nutshell

It's cute-as-a-button and looks like a house, but this corner terrace is actually the latest French/Spanish bistro/bodega to hit South Yarra. The prodigious offspring of Cuisine Du Temps super-chef Jacques Reymond (Edouard, Nathalie, and Antoine Reymond) have collaborated on Bistro Gitan, and it's about as far as you can get up South Yarra’s alley.

It’s an old-school kind of joint -– napkins laid across your lap, waiters who aren’t wearing combat boots, dark decor and some rather lovely upholstery -– but with a modern enough pan-European menu to pique some serious interest.

Traditionalists are sated by faithful renditions of patés, buttery snails and well-grilled steaks the size of handbags, but there’s also interesting gear like churros (Spain’s contribution to heart disease), reinvented as a savoury starter. The usually sugar-coated deep fried dough batons are spiked with gruyere cheese, so you get a crisp shell with a slightly gooey centre and a fat-god appeasing dip of celery and yoghurt.

Or then there are silky thick ribbons of papardelle pasta, folded under pan-fried chicken livers that are rendered totally unlivery by smoky pancetta and a sticky sweet balsamic glaze. It’s offal for the most adventurously challenged eater. The wine list isn’t bad either – lots of local and French gear in every serving size including carafes and 250ml pichets – for couples who share everything except a drinking problem.

We're not so keen on the snapper cooked en papillote (fancy talk for 'in a paper bag') as the steamy process seems to leach the sweetness out of the fish, but their take on steak tartare is a winner. Raw beef is sliced rather than minced, rolled around with Tabasco, Spanish onion and capers and served in a creamy celeriac lined lettuce cup like the love child of beef carpaccio and san choi bau.

In a word, Gitan is nice. It’s full of couples and big families, and it's bang on the money for this plush and leafy 'hood.

Who won the bar awards?

First published on . Updated on .

By Gemima Cody, Photos: Graham Denholm   |  

Bistro Gitan details

Address
52 Toorak Rd West, South Yarra 3141

Telephone 03 9867 5853

Price per person including drinks $51 to $100

Open Mon 5-10pm; Tue-Fri 12 noon-10pm; Sat 3-10pm

Bistro Gitan website

Bistro Gitan map

Report a problem with this page

Restaurants and bars nearby

Slater Street Bench

256m - Firstly, let’s get this straight. It’s not minimal, it’s minimalist....

Fleur Depot de Pain

422m - Located at the base of the boutique Art Series hotel, The Blackman, this...

The Botanical

424m - The Botanical is a Melbourne institution on the south-eastern side of the...

Bacash

456m - Head to South Yarra’s Bacash restaurant for the ultimate fine dining...

More restaurants and bars nearby

Other venues nearby

The Garage Gallery

327m - This art space used to be an old mechanics' shop and leftover remnants of...

The Blackman

422m - Yes, it's a lux hotel, but it also houses a swanky restaurant and bar and a...

More venues nearby
Christmas lunch

Christmas lunch

Skip the stress of hosting your yuletide celebrations and book a restaurant lunch instead

Readers' comments, reviews, hints and pictures

Community guidelines

blog comments powered by Disqus