It's a lovely little cottage. So lovely, and so little in fact that you may underestimate the might of the kitchens arsenal. From within comes an offering that will take you three hours to conquer - an endless array of pickled, smoked and cured antipasti, the basis of which you can be assured is local, right down to the olive oil in which your green beans bathe. It is followed by a parade of fresh pastas, and meats in various forms – you might get some tender lamb cutlets in a crunchy nut crumb, but there are no guarantees. This is a traditional Sardinian osteria set-up, meaning that whatever takes the chef's fancy that day is what lands on your table. It's a long drive, so consider having a sleepover in their accommodation at the converted church across the road.