We donned the black band of mourning for a month when Pietro Barbagallo closed the doors to his Lonsdale Street pizza-pasta house, Barbagallo, last year. The man is possessed of the kind of skills with flour one can only equate to magical powers, rendering that mere dust into some of the best puffy, fluffy and crisp pizza bases and silken yet strong strips of pasta this town has ever seen. And now, that same dough-wizard who once upon a time started I Carusi has returned to the pizza oven in Carlton South, serving his unique brand of delicious from a humble little space in Lincoln Square South. Mark our words, there will be queues, so get in while you can. Review to come.