DOC Delicatessen

Salume yourself silly at Tony Nicolini's latest addition to his Italian empire

If you’re a fan of the air-freighted buffalo mozzarella and rosy waves of San Danielle prosciutto that grace the pizze at DOC, prepare to mount a frontal assault on Tony Nicolini’s new Lygon Street deli.

It’s a spot lit slice o’ Italy festooned with so many pork products you could reverse engineer a pig. Gnocchi is made fresh on premises; they have six types of mozzarella, prickly pear paste and Campari. There’s beer jelly, mustard and a cow-goat-and-ewes-milk robiola cheese that's barely holding it together.

The products are mostly those approved by Italy’s recipe-protection police (Denominazione di origine controllata) which means they’re extra good, and extra pricey.

In true DOC style you’ll get a full greeting in Italian and an impassioned speech with your salumi (which, incidentally, refers to all salt-cured meats, of which salami – spiced air-dried sausages – are an example).
One guy actually stops making lasagne to give us a full low down, mapping each smallgood out on a hastily drawn pig.

“There is nothing the pig doesn’t give,” he tells us, circling the nose and tail. “These we cook with spices, till soft, and we make the cotechino – everybody wants this sausage at Christmas.”

Go bacon-like guanciale from the jowl, and slabs of pancetta, candy-striped with fat. There’s dark, marbled capocollo, and prosciutto: the hind legs, salted and compressed to force the blood out, then hung to dry-age. It’s only one-upped by culatello – ham candy, made like prosciutto but from just the sweetest part of the leg.

Get it sliced to order and bag it to go with crusty loaves of bread, golden peaches and a bottle of Prosecco. Can’t wait to get home? They'll serve it to you at the little tables out front with a wine and a wink.

Want to attend the Melbourne Food Awards?

First published on . Updated on .

By Gemima Cody   |   Photos by Asher Floyd   |  

DOC Delicatessen details

330 Lygon St

Carlton 3053

Telephone 03 9347 8482

DOC Delicatessen map

Restaurants near DOC Delicatessen

The Stone Mill 347

79m - On the face of it, this month-old Italian restaurant/café hybrid is as...

East Elevation

88m - If you were asked to picture a chocolate factory, odds are it wouldn’t...

Hellenic Republic

426m - If going Greek means figs with salty, squeaky grilled saganaki cheese for...

Bars & pubs near DOC Delicatessen

The Alderman

625m - There’s a hidden gem in the upper reaches of Lygon Street, and its name is...

Blackhearts and Sparrows: East Brunswick

648m - At this boutique booze haus wine is their bread and butter, but their...

Atticus Finch

773m - As the name suggests, Brunswick’s Atticus Finch is a bar of the literary...

Other venues near DOC Delicatessen

Five Boroughs

66m - Don’t let the name fool you. Although their namesake was taken from New...

Centre Stage

129m - There’s a real everything-including-the-kitchen-sink feel to this place...

Claire Best Handmade Shoes

229m - Working out of a Brunswick East studio, Claire Best wraps the hooves of both...

Readers' comments, reviews, hints and pictures

Community guidelines

blog comments powered by Disqus

© 2007 - 2014 Time Out Group Ltd. All rights reserved. All material on this site is © Time Out.