Time Out Melbourne

Japan's less-refined side is one hell of a lot of fun

Patrick Roberts – ex-school teacher, Japanophile and overalls lover – recently decided that Melbourne had too many hot towel sushi restaurants and not enough Japanese dive bars. So he opened Teriyaki Anarchy Sake - Collingwood’s first - and only - hipster house combining JFC (Japanese fried chicken) and Led Zeppelin.

This is Roberts' first gig, but he’s keeping a handle on things by keeping operations tight. He's serving Japanese tapas (Japas?) from a kitchen that consists of no more than a grill and a deep fryer. A mere $4.50 gets you something speared and charred, from juicy pork and little zucchini/tofu kebabs to the better part of a miso-slicked salmon steak (cheap!).

We have a lot of time for fresh sides too, like chilled green beans, nutty with black sesame paste and a soba noodle salad - its squishiness redeemed by ribbons of carrot, pickled ginger and a flowery disc of fried lotus root. Throw in karaage chicken nuggets squiggled with fruit and vegetable sauce – the sweet, vinegar-y stuff you usually find on breaded pork tonkatsu – and kewpie mayo and you’ve got a meal. Add an Orion beer and you’ve got a party.

It’s pretty slick for a dive bar. A huge rising sun emblem and framed band posters are the only decorations lining this brick shell of a room. And though there's there’s no karaoke, there's not a lot of dissent when we suggest cranking the Johnny Cash and DIY-ing it, either.

Sure, the odd squid skewer is chewier than it should be, and the short booze list prioritises good times over precision drinks – fruity Dragon Slayer is the only sake and cocktails include a Blood Sweat and
Tears of gin and Campari sluiced with electrolyte drink Pocari Sweat – it’s actually really refreshing.
But TAS is packing everything you need for a good night on the tiles on the cheap.

Updated on 13 Feb 2013.

By Gemima Cody   |   Photos by Graham Denholm

Teriyaki Anarchy Sake details

346 Smith St, Collingwood 3066

Open Thu-Fri 5pm-late; Sat-Sun 2pm-late

Teriyaki Anarchy Sake map

Report a problem with this page

Restaurants and bars nearby

Mamma Vittoria

15m - The famous Italian family restaurant Mamma Vittoria’s has sat on Smith...

Kerynia Café

24m - Serving up pitas of souvlaki and seftalia, Cypriot coffee and some of the...


28m - We’ve always liked the word zeitgeist. Sounds sort of zesty and delicious....

Two Row

42m - Cult beer is the angle at Smith Street’s new bar from Tiffany Waldron and...

More restaurants and bars nearby

Other venues nearby

The Picture Box

47m - From Tin Tin’s graphic comic book cover art posters, to Cinzano...

Big Dreams

62m - The shop formerly known as Small Dreams has moved to a bigger space (hence...

Siren Doll

101m - Siren Doll is the Mardi Gras of lingerie boutiques. Here, you’ll find PVC...

Nook Vintage

111m - The folks behind Nook Vintage have acquired so much over the years that they...

More venues nearby
Oak and Vine

Oak and Vine

A restaurant that pays tribute to Victoria's produce growers and suppliers

Readers' comments, reviews, hints and pictures

Community guidelines

blog comments powered by Disqus

Get the Time Out weekend planner. Straight to your inbox, every Thursday.
Read more