The classical music drifting through the air at Donati’s isn’t for you. It’s for relaxing the hams. Leo Donati’s Carlton store looks like an art gallery for meat – there’s an abstract oil painting of a pig’s head, a library of books on Carlton, old-school butcher’s blocks and polished marble benches. Want to have a crack at using ox tongue, or making veal saltimbocca? Donati will talk you through it, do all the prep and probably give you his recipe for good measure.