Frank Camorra is the undisputed king of Spain in this town. His stable is ever-expanding and now includes MoVida, MoVida Aqui, a bakery, a whole swathe of cookbooks and as of last year, a joint up in Sydney. He's even got an outpost in the departures lounge at Tullamarine.
It's an impressive empire build on a foundation of sharp service and delicious snacks. Crunchy, creamy croquettes with a liquid centre of squid ink; rosy pinches of salty jamon and little rolls loaded simply with a single slice of chorizo and a tongue of roasted red pepper. Perhaps it will be a gently spiced wagyu beef tartare, or the only dish of patatas bravas in town worth ordering.
It's hard to find anything to dislike about the original MoVida – the floors have been worn smooth by the most sure-footed waiters in the game yet the spot-lit space hasn't aged as fashions have. But there's something about the energy of MoVida Next Door we like just that little bit more. Perhaps it's the potential to inflict serious harm on yourself and wallet while sitting barside where over-ordering is a foregone conclusion.
Dress up or dress down. Go heavy on Rioja wines, or stick to Moritz beers. It's all on the cards here.