
DeVine proprietor Andreas Puhar may wear a ponytail not dissimilar to another big time Sydney CBD food personality, but operates under much more modest conditions. His corner-block wine bar and restaurant is a haunt for loyal wine-industry patrons, but attracts the savvy big-end-of-towners, too. Puhar is also an importer of fine wines from Europe, so his ever-morphing list is total wine porn for those seeking tasty obscurities and finer quality tipples. Rest assured: DeVine’s extensive wine list won’t exclude anyone – here hospitality is of the highest order, and comfort from charming staff can be found equally at the stand-up bar tables or relaxing in the dining room. Pick at the generous antipasto ($24) with a glass of mineral-inflected Molitor riesling ($11) or get cheeky with a dry, aromatic Vinea Marson rosé ($12). While wines are the superstars at DeVine, food is an important balance to the experience. Formal dining is set back from the main bustle of the bar, but upgrading from snacks to plates is easy anywhere. DeVine is ageing gracefully, continuing to show that thoughtful staff, wine and food is the secret to longevity.
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