Nicknamed the Drycleaner’s (it’s the best place in town to pick up a suit), Establishment can border on sleazy, but it can also be great fun. There’s a touch of the absurd in the décor, with high ceilings bolstered by marble columns, climbing plants and water features dotted around the broad, polished interior. You’ll need to stay sharp if you expect snappy service at the bar, and if you show up late, tipsy or sloppily dressed you might have trouble getting in the door in the fi rst place. The bouncers are notoriously strict. If the boisterous evening crowds scare you, go during the more sedate lunching hours, where the Gin Garden towards the back serves up excellent value Thai food in a faux Roman setting alongside some great cocktails. The bar staff here know their stuff, so don’t be afraid to ask for a recommendation.
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Sydney 2000
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