There’s a brooding moodiness to the rich dark wood interiors of Bacco. It's a fitting tribute to the suavebankers and lawyers who steam from their workaday jobs in the gleaming Chifley Tower to be transported somewhere else by this very stylish yet serviceable Italian-centric wine bar. Slump into one of the gothic-inspired wooden booths and paw over the 20 by-the-glass wine list. Take time to wade through the salumi, formaggi, antipasti and several riffs on bruschetta with an uplifting Bortolomiol prosecco in hand. You’ll have time to swing back through your selected fare with a robust sangiovese from Villa Antinori when the plates arrive. Service is thickly accented and charming, from a posse of well-dressed waiters and highly competent bartenders. The original cocktail list was honed by cocktail-supremo Marco Faraone, and continues to be a worthy foil to the well-bred wines on offer.