Stanley Street Station

Sydney is obsessed with reinventing itself, mainly because of the fit-out cost of establishing a new bar or restaurant. If this is what we're stuck with, then it's pleasing when you walk into a space to find a bar that works a lot better than its former incarnation. Eau de Vie did a brilliant job of the once-was Fix Bar at the Kirketon; Manly Wine funkified the former Will & Toby's beachside bar; and now Stanley Street Station is continuing the trend in fine fashion.

Stanley Street Station commands the corner of Crown and Stanley Streets in East Sydney, the site that was formerly Just Another Restaurant – one of the worst names in recent hospitality history. The furniture in the bar section – an ottoman here and a retro couch there – works well with the 50s swing music creeping out from the speakers. The low coffee tables are perfect for small bites from the grazing menu and the lighting is just right.

Thankfully, the Station hasn't followed the trend of several Darlo bars by charging eight bucks for a beer you wouldn't normally order – and frankly won't drink again – and instead has gone down the ‘touch above pub prices' path. Coopers Pale is $6 and a Peroni $7. Wines by the glass range from $7 to $11 and cocktails head north from $14. Classics are priced at $16 (think Martinis, Negronis, Margaritas and Mint Juleps) and that's just about right for both this area and the fact they are serving good quality house spirits (Herradura Reposado is used in the Margarita). Then, wash down the booze with some food from the grazing menu, particularly the lamb rump with balsamic onions and goat labne ($16) and fries with mayo ($6).

Okay, so why only three stars? Well, Stanley Street Station is primarily a restaurant and even though the bar area is comfortable, it loses intimacy and you do feel like you are in an eating house. It's a shame because the service is brilliant and quite simply if the entire venue was converted into a space the same as the bar area (couches and low tables) and featured an extensive shared plate menu (lose the mains), it would, hands down, be one of the best lounge bars in Sydney. James Wilkinson