Named for the infamous gang maiden who once ruled the streets of Darlinghurst and Surry Hills, Love Tilly Devine is a pocket-sized bar with an extraordinary wine list run by sommelier Matt Swieboda. Head upstairs to the little landing where black banquettes sit under a huge, swirling floral mural. Or (our personal favourite), prop up in the front window and catch a breeze in the warmer months. The Black Keys are playing in the background on our visit, and the dark corners by the entrance are taken up with media bigwigs from the surrounding offices intent on slashing budgets rather than rival gangs, but we like to think it’s a surreptitious nod to the area’s shady past all the same. While drinking by the bottle can be immensely pleasurable here (it’s a list broken up into flavour groups like ‘salt, shells and citrus’; ‘fruits, flowers and herbs’; ‘butter, toast and roasted nuts’ and ‘dry, sleek and entertaining’) there’s a lot to be said for the glass options, opening up a world of possibilities. Try the Tournelle ‘L’ Uva Arbosiana’ Poulsard from the Jura and be rewarded with $13 worth of ripe, juicy, sweet freshness, or wake up that sleepy palate with a glass of the Immich-Batterieberg ‘C.A.I.’ Kabinett riesling. Not feeling it? Order a Badlands pale ale from Orange or a glass of French cider instead – the world is your oyster (and yes, you can order those too).