The Roosevelt, one and a bit years on, has found its voice. There’s an authority and a sense of assurance here. Yup, they’re still pushing the nitro-cocktails (the drinks had a moment a while back, chilled down using liquid nitrogen instead of ice), but not with the same aggressiveness. They’re just a bit cooler about everything. If you want the bells, whistles and fanfare, order the Continental – a nitro-Martini of gin and vodka, white vermouth and yellow Chartreuse finished with bar manager Phil Gandevia’s own smoky bitters. An Owl and the Pussycat is a long and refreshing drink of gin, pea-infused tonic, elderflower and white grapefruit juice, wearing a little bamboo basket filled with peas and cucumber. Despite the jazz-age decor (big comfy leather banquettes, tassled curtains that wiggle in the breeze) it’s a soundtrack of Buddy Holly and Chuck Berry as you’re chewing your house-smoked jerky. Though there are now wine and beer lists, the Roosevelt is first and foremost a cocktail bar staffed by passionate spirits fans who know their stuff. You might try a 99 Bottles – a pre-batched dig at the Cuba Libre. Here, the spicy, ballsy drink is made with three types of rum, a splash of Chinotto and finished with a wheel of flamed lime. A Dead End – American and Scotch whiskeys, sweet vermouth and Averna – comes in its very own chilled flask. How very Biff.