Una's Upstairs

Let the small man in lederhosen show you the way to this hidden bar in Darlinghurst. Through the cheery mass of punters washing down giant plates of German-Austrian-Swiss fare with giant steins in the revered restaurant is a small staircase. Upstairs hides a Bavarian den: a cosy ski lodge, with stained glass windows overlooking Victoria Street. A few tables and chairs are scattered around the room but you are going to want to hold court on the bar stools. Beers included Schofferhofer, Dreher, Stiegel, DAB, Altenmunster, Goesser and Grimbergen when

dropped in. But it’s the closet stash of schnapps that’s most exciting; cherry, pear and apple on request. It’s a shame about the choice of music; distorted indie rock radio sounds tacky and doesn’t complete the theme all too effectively. Never mind: with the help of a veal schnitzel bigger than your face, you’ll be warming your cockles here all night. Locals have been doing the same for 40-odd years now and that says it all.