George Francisco - Jonah's - interview

Food epiphany? When I was 12 years old, I would come home from school and pull out one of my mum's cookbooks and bake sweets for my brothers, the kids in the neighborhood and myself. This was all done before my parents would come home from work, and without their knowledge. I started making cookies and moved on to cakes. My mother eventually figured it out because we kept running out of flour and sugar. Somewhere around that time I started telling everyone that I wanted to be a chef. My mum took advantage of all of this and I was soon trained to start dinner. She would come home and finish it at first, and later I would do the whole thing.

Kitchen Hero? Mark Franz of Farallon in San Francisco. Jeremiah Tower of Stars just behind him. They are not that well known here even though they have been around. They both came and helped Serge [Dansereau, now at Bathers' Pavilion in Balmoral] when he opened Kables at The Regent and Jeremiah has been long time friends with Neil Perry [at Rockpool (fish) in the Rocks]. I could see a lot of Stars restaurant in the original Rockpool - same carpet for one. I have been fortunate to have worked around at one time or another most of the great chefs of the US and many in Australia as well. I still have never seen anyone as great as Mark Franz. He is a true chef's chef. At 50-something, he still works a station during dinner service better than any other chef. Constantly creates great food, has an amazing knowledge of every aspect of running a restaurant, not just the kitchen. If I could I would be Joel Robuchon except he already is. And then there is the ‘I'm not French' thing.

First job in food? My first restaurant job was as a roast beef carver at a happy hour buffet. It was an average steak house named AJR. Doubledays, lots of green velvet, brass, ferns and backgammon tables.

Favourite ingredient? Always changes. Usually the best new one is my favourite. I have favourites when in season: figs, lavender, pomegranates, Longtail Red Snapper. My year round favourite would be the potato. I love potatoes because they go so well with many of my other favourites, black and white truffles, fried chicken. Also I am addicted to perfect French fries with aioli.

Most overrated ingredient? This year I would say the algin/calcic combo (mango caviar and the rest). The El Bulli range of products are really interesting but a lot of the results don't taste that good or are nearly impossible to make perfectly under normal restaurant kitchen conditions. To make the different caviar really well you need to do it ‘a la minute'. Hard to do with normal kitchen staffing levels. You need an El Bulli size brigade. Also everyone is doing it and it screams: "I'm a follower!" I have been doing a lot of work with the Texturas products, but only a couple of things will make it on my menu. I am teaching the rockmelon and mango caviar at my upcoming ‘Kids in the Kitchen' class. How will the chefs using the products feel when seven-year-olds are doing it at home to put on their ice cream? I do think the Texturas products are probably the most brilliant marketing by a restaurant that I have ever seen.

Favourite Sydney supplier? Matt Brown. He's always treated me with respect and sold me great product from the day I arrived in Sydney.  He has sold me great product regardless of my hat status, unlike some.

Favourite Sydney cheap eat?Pompei's pizza in Bondi.

Guilty pleasure? Well, I'm from San Francisco, deviant capital of the US. I don't think your readers can handle that information.

Indispensable kitchen tool? The only real answer is my chef's knife but other than that my oyster knife. You would be surprised what you can do with it and how often the need for one appears. I have one in the glove box in my ute.

Five ingredients that can conquer the world? Charantais melon, fresh morel mushrooms, fresh golden chanterelles, heirloom tomatoes, huitalacoche (corn truffle).

Last supper? My mum's fried chicken with mashed potatoes and gravy, my wife Lucienne's Caesar salad, and Marcel Desaulniers' Death by Chocolate cake (the original patent holder, who I did my apprenticeship with) with mocha rum sauce and white chocolate ice cream.

Home cooking? Mexican. Lucienne and I are the only ones who can cook it properly in Australia we know of.

Weirdest thing you've ever eaten? Cod semen (shirako in Japanese). I didn't spit!

Plates... should be polished by the service staff before opening.

Waiters... don't have TV shows.

Sommeliers... should be your best friend.

Kitchenhands... are better if they speak Spanish.

Customers... are what it's all about really.

Jonah's, Whale Beach 2108

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