Best Vegetarian Food in Sydney

Vegetarianism is akin to leprosy in some countries. In the meat meccas of France or Italy, it’s almost a crime. At a highly carnivore–friendly restaurant in Europe recently, we watched a vegetarian ceremoniously presented with a single raw carrot with its fronds drooping decoratively off the side of the plate. She looked like she was going to cry until they laughed and brought her out a large bowl of lentils sans pork belly.

Oh yes, around this flesh-friendly globe vegetarians often get the raw deal, facing restaurants that treat them like they’ve got second class tastebuds and menus where the only meat-free dishes are a joyless salad, a passé pumpkin soup or yet another bowl of doughy potato gnocchi.

Happily, Australia offers vegos sweet sanctuary, nowhere more so than in multicultural, multi–cuisine Sydney. A mainstay for Harbour City vegetarians is Green Gourmet, and like any great institution, it polarises opinion. That’s because its menu features mock meat – a substance well named, as it’s the target of jokes aplenty in the food world. However, it draws firm credibility from having been used for for centuries by the Buddhists whose mock meat is made from wheat, tofu, legumes or tempeh.  It means GG’s “mince” in the sang choy bow adds a salty hit to the lettuce parcel and the vegan ice cream is as sweet tooth-sating as the real thing. Eating here is like being fed by a saffron-robed grandma.

Bodhi is similar, only with higher aspirations. Lauded as the la-de-da yum cha for vegetarians, it also offers ‘faux meat’ and fusion dishes (think avocado salsa on soba with tempura lychee). Al fresco yum cha snares Bodhi’s biggest crowds, thanks to the table lottery of vegan dumplings, fruit jellies and Chinese donuts. Yum.

The menu at Iku Wholefoodseems designed by masochistic health freaks on a mission to break us down and rebuild us in their image, but flavour rules over kill joy calorie-watching. Their orange sago pudding dessert is far from taboo and the mushroom, tofu and garlic chive lasagne is a herbivore’s dream.

Another vego icon is Govinda’s. Load a plate with architectural configurations of pasta, bakes and other legume and carb-heavy buffet finds like dahl and chickpea curry then embrace your inner couch potato by watching the latest in film on dangerously comfy cushions.

Laurie’s Vegetarian Take Away resembles a uni cafeteria but with better food and less table politicking. Fill a bowl with wholegrain lasagne, roast vegies and enjoy without the drear of student poverty surrounding you. Indian cuisine is often vego-friendly, but Woodland’s takes the mango kulfi. This meat-free utopia is a bargain – the $15 thali treats you to various curries, soups, rice, pickles, sweets and breads (including the tube–like poori, which hides a yummy stash of potato onion curry).

A Little On The Side is omnivorous but has great vego breakfast choices, including roasted field mushrooms on sourdough. Late-risers should try the rightfully popular haloumi burger and the witty front of house Brett is an avowed vegetarian himself and is happy to “veg up” dishes containing meat.

Thrillseeking vegans love Otto Ristorante. It’s a high end restaurant with vegan menu options. Even with no butter or cheese in the dishes, the meals zing with flavour. The much celebrated asparagi con funghi in tegame is so light, your fork may be what’s stopping it from defying gravity.

For a palate stunning experience, there’s Bentley Restaurant and Bar’s vegetarian degustation. The gazpacho three ways is a vivid flavour starter and the white chocolate with apricot ice cream and fizz is a sweetly explosive end note.

Astral also has a vego tasting menu. It’s dizzying 270 degree view of Sydney Harbour is a visual aperitif and the service leaves you feeling like you’ve had ten birthdays in five minutes. All without carrot sticks.

The Hit List

Green Gourmet, Newtown
Bodhi, Sydney
Iku, Glebe, Neutral Bay, Waverley, Darlinghurst, Rozelle also shopfronts in MetCentre, AMP Plaza and MLC Centre, Sydney
Govinda’s, Darlinghurst
Laurie’s Vegetarian Take Away, Bondi
Woodland’s, Liverpool
A Little On The Side, Darlington
Otto,Woolloomooloo
Bentley Restaurant & Bar,Surry Hills
Astral,Pyrmont

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