Sydney's best new pizza joints

The challenge: to find the best new pizza in Sydney.
Control subject: the classic Margherita.
Variables: Other pizze on offer; random delicous dishes; interesting booze; service and the fun factor.

Top Level Woodfired Pizza Bar

The lowdown Sydney wept molten cheesy tears when Ruggiero Lattanzio sold the amazing Haberfield pizzeria, La Disfida. But he's back now, in a new location with a new name and - double-plus-yay - the same old menu.
The room Top Level is built on the old Posh Spice site so it has a bit of a Changing Rooms vibe to it – chiffon curtains, wall hangings, bright blocks of colour... you get the picture. But taking pride of place is the enormous woodfired oven. And this is where the magic happens.
The food The menu features all your old favourites from La Disfida including our pick, bocconcini speck (blobs of cured pork wrapped soft white cheese pierced with a toothpick then cooked in the oven until everything's gooey). But hey - you're here for the pizza. They're all here, and they're all classics. Choose from your basic Margherita or kick it up a notch with a chilli, olive and anchovy number.
The service You wouldn't make a special trip for the service here - it's slow and not all that personable.
Value Antipasti, beers and pizze will set you back around $50 a head.
Anything else? There's frosty Becks on tap in very tall glasses and while it's quiet, it's easy to get a table. Lvl 1, 196 King St, Newtown 2042. (02 8021 7656). Mon-Sun 6pm-late.

La Casa Ristorante

The lowdown Russell Lea may not boast a world of hardcore nightlife (although there is a great deli just up the road) but it does boast this new Italian restaurant.
The food It's large, to say the least. Go with this warning in your hearts, and if you're fool enough to order two courses, be it on your own heads. The pizza, oddly, is actually the weakest link. The bases are thick and doughy and don't have that charred quality you want in a good base. The toppings are good, though - they use fior di latte on all the pizze except on the buffala, a luxed-up Margherita that uses buffalo mozzarella. La Casa also does a great potato, rosemary and sea salt pizza.
The service This is a loud, local and bustling trattoria - don't expect silver service, but a la famiglia vibe where wine and grappa are slung as freely as beer and water.
The room It's a packed little room with warm tones and pictures of Italy all over the walls - it's exactly the way you expect a neighbourhood restaurant to look.
Value Sound - if you go for a straight pizza and some wine, you'll spend less than $50 a head.
Anything else? Make sure to order the meatballs and share them - they're amazing.

Enopizzeria

The lowdown This Neutral Bay pizzeria is filled with folks in chinos eating their pizza with knives and forks and chilling their red wine. But look closer and you'll find a bustling restaurant staffed by friendly Italians who also do great pizza.
The food You're going to have to sift quite carefully through the pizza menu - we counted two with truffle oil and they're deceptively on opposite ends of the menu. The Margherita features a nice crisp base, fior di latte, basil, parmesan and olive oil. And, just to throw in a wildcard, we order a stuffed crust number they're calling the Enopizza. The crust is stuffed with provolone and ham and the pizza itself is topped with buffalo mozz, parmesan and prosciutto, drizzled with a little olive oil and covered in a tangle of rocket.
The service It's friendly, if not incredibly hectic. If you want to be served quickly, get here early. After 8pm, all bets are off.
The room It's dark, sleek and filled with the loud hum of people having a good time. Try and avoid the seats by the window, though - the stools are uncomfortable and there's nowhere to put your feet. There are a few outdoor tables, though, which would be super nice on a clear evening.
Value These are Neutral Bay prices, but you could likely get away with less than $35 a head if you just had pizza and no wine.
Anything else? There's an excellent macaroni dish of broccoli, chilli and anchovies and some tasty little lamb cutlets with salsa verde on offer. Not to mention an exciting wine list featuring several drops from Italian wine importer Sabino Mattera.

Vacanza

The lowdown This Waverley pizzeria is a glittering gem on an otherwise fairly grim stretch of Bronte Road (save, of course, Ruby's Diner and Bronte Road Bistro). The two-level restaurant plays the best music we've heard while eating pizza and is run by sharply dressed girls with an even sharper sense of humour.
The food Out of the four pizza places we ate at for this story, Vacanza leaves the rest for dead. The dough is yielding yet beautifully, evenly scorched and the toppings include the richest, sweetest, creamiest buffalo mozzarella we've ever had the pleasure of tasting.
The service Snappy, friendly and prompt - they don't even blink an eye when we try to order milkshakes and pasta to go with our pizza.
The room Downstairs has a diner-style strip with a row of tables and chairs, while upstairs features a more traditional dining room with plenty of light and open windows. Great for summer.
Anything else? Vacanza also do a dessert pizza and one of the best lasagnes you're likely to taste in town.

Coming soon! Pizza e Birra, Balmain

PeB of Balmain will open shortly so we'll be counting on a few letters from you, dear readers, to let us know what it's like. They'll also be opening a little shop down the road called Biccicletta where you'll be able to buy fresh pasta, sugo and coffee. Meanwhile, the restaurant is located at  330 Darling St, Balmain 2041.

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