Time Out Sydney

Get the scoop on what's hot this very second and eat there before your friends do

1. Porteño

We’d like to issue a two-fist salute right now to the most exciting restaurant to have opened since last August. At Porteño, smoke, meat, salt, fire, beers, rock’n’roll and a metric eff-load of Brylcreem all mingle in pursuit of the ultimate good time. Whether you’re upstairs at Gardel’s Bar with a plate of tiny hotdogs and a beer or setting up for the whole shebang in the restaurant proper, we can promise a whole lotta fun. In the kitchen, Ben Milgate and Elvis Abrahanowicz work the grills, so quoiffed and tattooed they look like they’ve just stepped out of an especially stylish 1950s prison kitchen. Maitre d’ (and this month’s cover girl) Sarah Doyle runs the floor in platinum pin curls. Sommelier-co-owner Joe Valore could easily take you for a spin around the dance floor while pouring you a glass of wine. They all want you to have a blast. So here’s how to get the most out of the joint: hit Gardel’s Bar (if you’ve arrived past seven you’ll have to anyway – tables here are scarce) and order a cocktail (how about a Fernet Branca and cola?) or kick back with an Estrella beer, which they have on tap. You can’t come to Porteño and not order something from one of the whole beasts cooked over a fruitwood fire on a metal brace that looks like a medieval torture instrument. This, folks, is the asador – a hangover from Argentina’s cowboy days. Try a bit of Suffolk lamb shin or some of the amazing crisp-skinned suckling pig. Or can we sway you to order the suckling pig’s head? Oh, and don’t miss the Brussels sprouts, all sweet, sticky and crisp fried. Wandering lost along Cleveland Street? Follow your nose and the queue. It’s a good time at Porteño, a very good time indeed. Go early, stay late. Hell – don’t leave at all, if you can help it. Surry Hills 2010. (02 8399 1440). Mon–Sat 6pm–late.

Gastro Park

2. Gastro Park

It’s the restaurant Sydney can’t stop talking about. Try tuna belly impaled on a polished tuna bone. Potts Point 2011. (02 8068 1017). Lunch Fri–Sat 12 noon–2.30pm; dinner Tue–Sat 6–10pm.



3. Bécasse

Bécasse redux is festival of lightness and texture. Sydney 2000. (02 9283 3440). Lunch Mon–Sat 12 noon–2.30pm; dinner Mon–Sat 6–10.30pm.


Bar H

4. Bar H

Go for a glass of wine and stay for the deep-fried quail’s eggs with chilli sauce. Surry Hills 2010. (02 9280 1980). Lunch Thu–Fri 12 noon–3pm; dinner Tue–Sat 6pm–late.




 5. Felix

Haven’t eaten the Reuben sandwich? You’re going to hell. Save your soul now. Sydney 2000. (02 9240 3000). Lunch Mon–Fri 12 noon–3pm; dinner Mon–Sat 5.30–10.30pm


More on Time Out Sydney Food Awards 2011

Last year's winners

Who won the Sydney Food Awards?

First published on . Updated on .

By Myffy Rigby   |  

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