The Codfather

Surf 'n' turf - scallops ‘n' pork belly. Reef 'n' beef - chorizo ‘n' squid. The meeting of the animal proteins of the land and sea has a venerable history both here and around the world. And we're not just talking eating pies at the beach either. That said, the union of the rabbit and fish may not yet have come - but if you want to consider the situation up close, make a bee line for The Codfather.

The Codfather is a year-old restaurant on Stanmore's main drag owned by Ross Godfrey (he's the same guy who owns Newtown's Oscillate Wildly). Where Oscillate Wildly is known for its out-there menu (think lots of soils, smears and snows), the cooking at The Codfather's takes place in their strangely enormous kitchen, and with its seafood focus, is generally a straighter affair.

Sit down here and you're offered chickpea battered deep-fried mussels as a complimentary appetiser. "Salty," as the actress said to the bishop, "but good". Entrees run from a healthy serve of steamed Boston Bay mussels in a very soupy saffron-tinged tomato sauce with grilled toast on the side to a very straight-down-the-line vego entrée of a big crunchy felafel with slices of beetroot and yoghurt-tinged cheese and tangy orange oil. All good.

The mains throw curve balls. The fish curry of blue eye trevalla is more a curry-crusted number than the richer, moister offering you picture. Crisp-skinned Clarence sand whiting is served with vanilla-poached quince, walnuts and watercress. The fish is dandy but the accompaniment might bring to mind a cheese plate more than a seafood course for some.

And then comes the bunny. It features in a pie - one of those ramekins topped with pastry, braised shreds of the meat with a scattering of partially dried grapes. The fish - again blue eye trevalla - sits on the other side of the plate napped with a splash of mustard-seed dressing and crowned with a thatch of deep fried sage leaves.

It's beautifully cooked, the flakes falling fatly under the knife to reveal a nice juicy interior. The pie is also quite nice. However, why they're on the same plate is the only thing that's unclear. Odd, yes - but not a deal-breaker.

Service and desserts are just fine if not endearing in and of themselves. But there's a lot to like about the room, even if the slightly jaundiced glow from a ropey feature light is a little disconcerting. The large graffiti mural on one wall is totally "ghetto" and the touches of whimsy such as the hand-drawn individual piscine placemats make it all the more likeable. The cooking is sound, though some of the combinations are something of a stretch.

It might not be an offer you can't refuse but it's no horse's head in the bed, either.