Arras

Restaurant Arras has recently moved from their Millers Point digs onto the old Becasse site on Clarence Street in the city. They've opened with a brand new look and a brand new menu. 

Full story coming soon

MILLERS POINT REVIEW:

Nothing rocks out like AC/DC's 1980 smash Back in Black. With a powerful, kick-arse guitar intro, it's earned its place in Aussie rock history. And it loops as we order rack on black - rounds of black pudding sandwiched between slices of juicy pink lamb. Tortellini made completely from leek (leek skin, with a braised leek filling) sit on the side and complement the slightly crumbly pudding. It's a nicely composed but a little heavy going in the height of a muggy Sydney summer.

Chef Adam Humphrey's food on the whole is tops but it could stand to be a little pared back. Take the reductions on otherwise really nicely thought out dishes like the cauliflower tart with a salad of teeny cauli' florets - the beetroot squiggle across the plate is more glory than guts.

They do, however, pour their water out of Fink jugs (not sure how many pepper grinders were sacrificed for this piece of design genius, but it's enough that the pepper is served pre-ground on the table). Design is considered right down to the pre-distressed Union Flag covered chairs.

The winner of the evening is a stout little bread and butter pudding (the brief here is northern English food) with striations of blue swimmer crabmeat works beautifully with a tomato pickle on the side - egg and crab make happy bedfellows and the pickle adds some sass.

The dinnerware isn't ideal - the sound of Robert Welch cutlery hitting glass and slate plates is akin to running your fingers down a blackboard and the large bowls holding the likes of a beautifully peppery red mullet minestrone are curved so your eating tools fall straight into them. Grr.

There are a couple of desserts on the menu that should be re-thought like the chunky cut banana tatin (a sort of upside down tart) with choco-malt ice cream and a fruit soup with garnished with sherbet. Better order the Yorkshire cream tea which comes in a little glass with layers of black tea jelly, jam and cream with little pieces of crumbled scone on the top - it's like eating scones and jam with a cup of tea on the side, only all on a spoon. And don't miss the very British jammy dodgers (raspberry jam pressed between two shortbread biscuits) or the chocolate covered coconut.

While there are a few crinkles to iron out (namely the pastry side of things and the wintry menu), all the bones are there and there's some seriously good cooking at the bottom of it. Eeh, by gum.