Uccello

First published on 18 Mar 2009. Updated on 2 Feb 2011.

"Beware," says our Italian phrasebook "uccello means both bird and dick." The last of the Ivy restaurants to come to pass, Uccello (as in bird, not dick) has arguably the best spot in the complex. Built on the fourth floor, right next to the swimming pool which will be ready to rock in the next month or so, the outdoor area is a dazzling Miami-white. Inside, chef Massimo Bianchi's menu is simple Italian where the flavours are left to speak for themselves.

Wait staff encourage you to order four courses- antipasti, primi, secondi and dolci. Expense aside (you're looking at least $100 per head if you follow this eating plan), it's too much food. At lunchtime, we order antipasti, pasta, share a main course and have no room for desserts. So we return for dinner, swapping our main for dessert and still leave with bulging bellies. Share a selection of things- that way you can try everything and not leave looking like the Michelin Man.

There is some gold under $60 on the wine list but it's not immediately obvious and our sommelier is reluctant to point out anything less than $80 until specifically asked - not ideal.

Food-wise, start with the norcineria - a selection of cured meats from Quattro Stelle including ndjuja (a type of super soft, spicy Italian sausage), salami, and a festival of cured pork including back, neck and belly - or try the fritti alla Romana - a selection of fried things, there's little pieces of salt cod, arancini, zucchini flowers and meatballs.

The pasta is absolutely out of this world. Our picks are the fettuccine alla Romana - fresh, firm fetuccine made in-house with a tangy, light chicken ragu while pasta al forno sees tubular pasta baked in the woodfire oven with smoky, rich provola cheese which is then dotted with green peas. But the winner is the angel hair with crab, garlic and chilli scattered with capers and a little parsley. The simple, clean flavours really pop and it's a great choice if you've ordered four courses.

Going the whole hog? Try the Flinders Island lamb cutlets, roasted with garlic, rosemary and white wine served with a side of roast potato and silverbeet. And if you're after greenery, have the sautéed broccoli with garlic and chilli.

The zuppa inglese (Italian trifle) features layers of liqueur-soaked sponge and crème patisserie bejewelled with maraschino cherries, whipped cream and topped with meringue very gently licked by flame. Not to be missed.

There's a lot to like here- a menu filled with things that taste as good as they read, a floor staffed with attentive, friendly people and when that swimming pool's full, even more reason to pull up a pew.

Licensed, around $100pp, including wine.

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Sydney's best outdoor restaurants

The great outdoors: It's a winning combination: a tasty menu, a floor staffed with attentive, friendly people and poolside views of Sydney's hottest swimming spot, Ivy Pool Club. All in all, this top-floor Ivy restaurant provides a level of wow you won't find in anywhere else in town. Finished lunch? Kick your shoes off, dip your feet in the pool and have an aperitif. Built on the fourth floor, the outdoor area is dazzling white and daffodil yellow, with the aquamarine pool sparkling in the middle of the courtyard like a little square of Miami.

What to order: The pasta is absolutely out of this world. Our picks are the fettuccine alla Romana - fresh, firm bouncy fettuccine made in-house with a tangy, light chicken ragu, while pasta al forno involves tubular pasta baked in the wood-fired oven with smoky, rich provola cheese, then dotted with green peas. The winner, though, is the angel hair with crab, garlic and chilli scattered with capers and a little parsley. Simple, clean flavours that really pop.

Inside knowledge: Book an outdoor table and be right next to the action: gals in bikinis swanning about taking drinks orders, good looking people frolicking in the pool, and a hot guy with a six pack as the lifeguard.