Provincial delights abound here, pre-eminent among them the famous Bertoni house brand Arabica blend of four beans, which hits the palate in classic southern Italian style: strong, sexy and supercharged with gratis housemade biscotti on the side. Weekend hordes scramble for communal tables and milk crates, with most hankering after a fat slab of Mamma Maria’s lasagne – a 150-year-old secret family recipe encasing sweet meats and a variety of molten cheeses between luscious sheets of housemade pasta.