Steve Hodges and fish go together like milk and honey. Having worked with all things piscine for about as long as Methuselah, he has a more in-depth knowledge of seafood than just about anyone in town. Oh, and he can cook like buggery. Dishes like the most delicate Bass groper – just set with bright greens or spanner crab with buttery tagliatelle with the finest dice of tomato – are evidence of his prowess. There’s sushi too, raw scallops sliced thin as a whisper or if you’re very lucky, chu toro – belly of bluefin tuna so white, fatty and sweet that at room temperature it basically melts: it’s the jamon iberrico of the sea. He also does fish and chips with fillets of flathead, nubs of chip and their own tripod in which the cone stands. The room’s a hot shoebox but if you can score a seat outside you’ll be a happy camper.