La Brasserie

Zut alors! What's not to love about authentic steak frites in Sydney?

Take a grain-fed slice of Tasman sirloin, fistfuls of more-ish French fries and slather the meat in mouthwatering heart-stopping buttery sauce café de Paris… We think your arteries will forgive you. Maybe.

The city's authentic answer to a Parisien bistro off the beaten track lies on Darlinghurst's Crown Street. Streetside seating in the Sydney tradition is available but limited. No matter, we prefer the ambiance de l'interieur: the black and white floor tiles boast a confident retro charm; the wooden bar is broad and backed by a fine display of wine bottles; and unless you've booked the private room there's a strangely satisfying cramped feel to the row of dining tables that speak of inner-city power lunching. Flavourful entrées include a silky liver parfait, twice baked gruyère souf?é and oysters piqued by cabernet vinegar dressing. But we can't steer past the steaming bowl of french onion soup – salty, lip-smacking good and topped with an indulgently cheesy crouton crust.

Les Specialities are an equally hearty affair, from generous cuts of Black Angus, tender braised lamb shanks or reliably fresh fish of the day. Mains average $30 a dish. Not bad value when served up with consistently excellent wine advice delivered in an unassuming manner with a suitably thick accent – skip the Aussie Shiraz, bring on the Bordeaux.