The Kick Inside

Is anyone disturbed by a café naming itself after a Kate Bush song about an unwanted pregnancy? No? Then step into the glorious 70s time warp and even the bleakest winter day will be rendered shiny and new. A mismatched collection of furniture and crockery - mostly brown - fits out this cosy hideaway with splashes of red, orange, yellow and green. It's a nod to a time when primary colours ruled.

The excellent coffee is by local roasters Golden Cobra, but if you are just easing into the day then we recommend the chai tea, a spicy brew that only gets better with time - linger over it as you peruse the menu, which has all the usual suspects. There's a daily omelette special but sadly they are all out of the mushroom, haloumi and marjoram number when we visit so we opt instead for the tarragon baked beans. Go all out and get them with cheese and ham. The beans are lighter than your usual garden-variety baked legume, dominated by fresh tomato and herbs rather than the heavy flavours of molasses, mustard and bacon. The cheese and ham melt underneath is the hidden treasure of this hearty brekky option.

To avoid a carb-coma, try the honey-spiced toasted muesli with yoghurt and poached fruit: a house specialty. If you're really struggling to cope with the world you can get a take away and hide out in the back garden, so long as you're friendly to the dreadlocked neighbours who occasionally wander by.