Oceanic Thai

Max Mullins, a graduate from the David Thompson School of Thai (that’s DT, the ex-pat legend and godfather of modern Thai cookery in Australia), opened Oceanic a couple of years ago with all the spiced up savvy he learned at Sailor’s Thai in the Rocks. To show how much he learned and how far he’s come since order the banquet – a good way to see what’s on offer without breaking bank or gut. Thaigustation anyone?

The mahor is a mix of sweet bits of pork and prawns served on little chunks of pineapple, which carries an edge over the oysters with nahm jim (a kind of chilli/peanut relish). A miang of prawns served with pomelo is a burst of fl avour with the sweet delicate pomelo and the crunch of the cashew salad laced with plenty of chilli and a little kaffir lime offers a nice variation texturally in the line-up of sweet, salt and squish. Tonight it’s the lon of king prawns that emerges as the winner dish of the evening. Prawns are simmered down to an virtual paste in coconut cream and served with little chunks of sweet, caramelised pork and a crisp, sharp salad of green papaya.

Nahm prik – a relish made of smoked trout – is served with crisp fresh cabbage leaves and cucumber and is hot and sour and incredibly flavour rich. The intricate melding of sour, sweet, hot, dry and smoky tones here (all in one mouthful if you’re doing it right) make Thai food all the better with a beer (Singha or Tiger are eminently compatible).

That’s not to say that Max’s food is a ringburning festivus. It’s too stylised for that – designed to be eaten in small amounts over several courses. Stir-fried salted beef comes hot and heavy at the end of the meal and though it’s an incredible ending, it’s a bit of a stretch. Service, headed by Sally Lynch (ex Tilbury) is quick and clean, though some of the waitstaff are a little unsure of the menu’s depths. The room is exactly what a restaurant near the water should be – the space is cool, shady and inviting and totally appropriate for a balmy summer evening. And while it’s a little more exxy than your average Thai diner, it’s also way more stylish and offers more in the way of interesting snacks than most. Oh, and they’re about to re-work the menu to greater heights.