Potts Point welcomes a café-grocer-wine bar – and a serious contender for Sydney's best Hollandaise
Is this Sydney’s best Hollandaise? It’s a big call but the classic sauce of egg yolks, butter and lemon juice at Chez Dee is top notch. It’s wonderfully thick, sitting on top of two poached eggs like a delicious brunch hat. Sure, it's almost all butter and egg, but then there's that splash of lemon juice that cuts the richness like Easy Off BAM for your tongue.
And it’s not just the Hollandaise that is good here – everything is extremely well executed. Golden rivers of yolk run over pan-fried mushrooms with slivers of green onion, adding bite to poached eggs on toast. At this point you may as well go the whole hog and order a side of the baked black-eyed beans and bacon. The small, tender beans in a rustic tomato sauce help temper the richness of the pork. And hey, what are eggs without bacon?
Co-owner Byron Woolfrey earned his stripes with stints at Ms G's and Bentley Bar and he clearly runs a tight ship at this chic French café. But it is chef James Roberts who is creating some serious magic in the kitchens. The scrambled eggs come with sea urchin roe mixed through the just-set eggs, providing a salty richness to what Is already a silky, buttery breakfast – nothing says "living it up" like sea eggs. Of course, if all this butter is a bit much first thing in the morning then we reckon a bowl of the banana porridge might be more your speed.
You’ll find Chez Dee in an elegant, charcoal terrace on Kellett Street that once housed Tonic Lounge. They’re big on aesthetics here. One half of the downstairs area is given over to a big, shabby-chic dining table where people perch beneath vintage chandeliers and make short work of the house-made bread and butter pudding with chocolate and cinnamon. The other half of the room is a boutique grocer so beautifully styled you could easily find yourself handing over the week’s rent on fresh walnuts, preserves, imported sardines, beautiful French cordials and copper, duck-shaped cookie cutters. (We all need this, we do.)
There isn’t a lot of room to spare so, if the ground floor is fit-to-bursting, traipse upstairs where the décor takes a decidedly Morrocan turn with mirrored cushions, intricate lanterns and a day bed built into one wall – the ultimate hangover hideaway.
Not a morning a person? Chez Dee also moonlights as a wine bar of an evening and on Sundays they do a roast for 12 bucks. We think that Potts Point is onto a winner here.