Apres

Purchased in 1954 as home base for the studios of 2KY, it was originally owned by Kings Cross sin king Abe Saffron who had it running as a nightclub and restaurant complete with the infamous ‘Blue Room' that used to show porno flicks in the 30s. Today, partners David Poirer (from La Grand Bouffe in Rozelle) and Josh Renshaw have opened a totally straight yet sophisticated bistro with the help of chef Martyn Webster.

With two menus to choose from, diners are blessed with a wealth of choice. Menu Express is a lunchtime offer that's all about getting in and out with maximum brevity. Choose from the light, fluffy herbed omelette served with slices of grilled baguette rubbed with olive oil and garlic or the confit duck baguette with cornichons (petit pickled cucumbers), mustard and leaves. There are also buttery fresh-shelled peas offered as a side with either menu served with sweet, softened shallots.

The room is classically styled in Rat Pack rich red booths, dark wood tables, thick white linen and low lights. Dinner sees more formal food including a welcoming snail as an amuse bouche which is hell buttery, a little garlicky and very tasty. Hiramasa kingfish tartare is boosted with a blob of horseradish cream while a very generous serve of creamed mushroom soup is topped with sautéed pine mushrooms (these are only in season for a precious few months of the year so it's always exciting to see them on menus).

There are also three variations on steak frite including the classic sirloin with café de Paris butter and shoestring French fries. It's a truly flavour-packed piece of meat well seasoned with a generous amount of chew. More delicate and a little less of an attack of bovine proportions is the special of mirror dory with puy lentils, carrot puree and lardons. There's also a bouillabaisse (traditional provincial French seafood soup) for two and a Rhone heavy wine list incorporating plenty of interesting French and Australian varietals by the glass. For a great value add, try the set menu for $60 and save a few clams.

They may have only been open a month but the show is most definitely on the road with snappy service, simple yet flavoursome food and a luscious Deco room.