The admirable Nelson

There was sand, sun and surf. Barely three hours from the hectic buzz of the Sydney metropolis we hit
a tempting hurdle. We discovered a massive sand dune towering above Port Stephens’ gorgeous Fingal Bay and were faced with an offer we couldn’t refuse. “Let’s climb it,” I said.

About 160 kilometres north of Sydney, the Port Stephens region is dotted with remote islands, lighthouses and stunning white-sanded beaches. The estuary was spotted by Captain Cook in May 1770 and named in honour of Sir Philip Stephens, secretary of the Admiralty. Boasting rich indigenous, maritime and military heritage, these days it’s a hub for weekend holidaymakers, bridal parties and retirees.

Back at Fingal Bay, as we scrambled up the crumbling face of the dune, I was soon wheezing on my words. Scuttling crabs offered little distraction and the buff local who coolly jogged past us was just a cruel taunt. Turning, exhausted, at the crest of the dune, an impressive view sprawled out beneath our feet – Fingal Island, a remote spot accessible only by boat or across a dangerous, partly submerged sand spit, was patched with a mosaic of chalky olive and verdant green vegetation. The bay was bathed in a rich, oceanic blue. Perfect.

Climbing Fingal’s whopping sand dune wasn’t our only vertical adventure on our weekend in Port Stephens. After enjoying a luxurious night at Oaks Lure Apartments – our sleek and modern accommodation at Nelson Bay – we tackled Tomaree Head. This steep headland soars skyward from the eastern end of Shoal Bay, a peaceful, sheltered beach with a creaky pier chock full of local kids hoping to snag a fish. We managed the climb to the summit in about 25 minutes. It was all relatively easy-going with well-maintained tracks and, in parts, an elevated metal walkway. The 360-degree views over the entire waterway up to Hawks Nest, down to Fingal Bay and everywhere in between surpassed the effort of scaling the sentinel.

Having knocked off our second peak in as many days, our bellies were craving a feed. On a local tip-off we headed to Inner Light Tea Rooms, a modest breakfast and lunch spot with choice views, excellent coffee and the freshest scones. The Heritage Museum located next door has a range of fascinating artefacts from the building’s past use as lighthouse.

Nelson Bay, the hub of dining and shopping in the region, has undergone a transformation in the last few years with a boom of quality accommodation and dining options. Our room at Oaks Lure – designed with a penchant for white, chocolate and stainless steel – boasted a well equipped kitchen. However, we opted to hit the street – a two-minute walk – to sample the local fare.

Zest, an award-winning restaurant located in Nelson’s main street, enjoys good reviews but we fell in love with The Only Place, a modest Indian restaurant just up the road. Although somewhat bizarrely housed in the foyer of a small shopping mall, our waitress was genuine and friendly. The menu teemed with exotic, flavoursome dishes.

The surge of plush new development may be eroding a little of Nelson Bay’s laidback coastal charm, but step outside your comfort zone – climb a dune or two – and you’ll discover natural beauty right across the region.

Getting There

Nelson Bay is about three hours’ drive north of Sydney. The drive north along the highway is fairly uninspiring but once you head east from Raymond Terrace there are a number of small coastal towns you can visit such as Soldiers Point, Anna Bay and Corlette.

Where To Stay

The Port Stephens region has a diverse range of accommodation options including a youth hostel (02 4982 1921 www.yha.com.au), holiday rentals and apartments. Time Out stayed at Nelson Bay’s central Oaks Lure Apartments (02 4980 4888 www.theoaksgroup.com.au/Property.aspx?sid=24), which has full kitchen facilities and an outdoor pool.

Where To Eat

Nelson Bay’s marina, d’Albora, has a bunch of quality dining options including Aquablu (02 4984 9999) and Rock Lobster (02 4981 1413 www.rocklobsterrestaurant.com.au). Die-hard foodies should hit Zest (02 4984 2211 www.zestrestaurant.net.au), a modern Australian restaurant located in Nelson’s main street. The Only Place (02 4984 4414) has tasty Indian cuisine and friendly service. Smack bang on the top of the hill at the western end of Shoal Bay, Inner Light Tea Rooms (02 4984 2505) is a top spot for
a lazy morning or afternoon tea.

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