The Hawkesbury River

A silver-haired man with a beatific smile nods and sits down right next to us. Which feels odd because there is no-one else aboard and our city sensibilities are to keep our distance. It's a lazy ten-minute chug on the old timber ferry from the wharf at Brooklyn to Dangar Island, a cut-off oasis of calm in the middle of the Hawkesbury River. This, we are soon told, is a journey that Ronald and his wife Ursa made 30 years ago when they first came to Australia on holiday from Norway. They fell in love with each other and with the Hawkesbury that day and never went back. It's easy to see why. "It's like the fjords but with good weather," evangalises Ronald, with a strange hybrid accent. "You will love it."

Ronald was not wrong. It had been a particularly exhausting week back in Sydney and the batteries needed a restorative recharge. So we plugged in at the Bathers Boatshed for the weekend. It does exactly what it says on the tinnie: you can only reach the place by boat and it's a perfect spot for messing about on the river. It feels like the idyllic setting for Swallows and Amazons.

On our one-minute walk from the wharf to our boatshed, we pass the  'car park' - a motley collection of upturned wheelbarrows left at the jetty by the island's 270 residents to transport provisions. It's the most fun you can have on one wheel and it sums up the slow-paced charm of the place.

When we arrive, the doors and windows to the boatshed are flung open, the music is tinkling away. It's spacious, fully equipped and quirkily decorated in shabby chic and maritime bric-a-brac. We snoop around like Goldilocks, nibbling at the gourmet goodies that have been left in the well-stocked fridge and trying out the beds. The kingsize that looks out over the river is just right. Though we actually sneak a snooze in the late morning sun slumped in the deckchairs, books on chests, lulled by the lapping water.

A toot rouses us. It's a water taxi bobbing at the end of our jetty, come to take us to lunch at Cottage Point Inn - a fancy pants affair 15 minutes down river. The fish-dominated menu isn't cheap, but it's well worth splashing out on: the barramundi with grilled plum is as sensational as the restaurant's riverbank setting. We don't have room for the cheese plate so we take it to go.

Back at the boatshed, we discover some kayaks and fishing rods and decide to channel our inner Huckleberry Finn before the sun sets by having a paddle and dropping a line over the side. It's a great way to check out some of the impressive local real estate.

That night the heavens open and batter the tin roof as we cosily bunker down on the sofa with a rug, a red, that cheese and an epic game of Scrabble.

The next morning, as we enjoy a healthy brunch at the nearby General Store's café while awaiting the ferry, all is tranquillity once more. We take a little of that calm back home with us to Sydney, those infectious beatific smiles a-beaming.

Getting there

It's easy-peasy and yet it feels like you're in another world: only an hour's drive to Brooklyn from Sydney (so long as the F3 isn't snarled up). Alternatively you can get the train - which is what most of the commuting locals do - and pull in at the station next to the wharf. From there, pick up the ferry which goes every hour or so ($5.40 single fare) or hail a water taxi ($70). Book flights to Sydney.

Where to stay

Bathers Boatshed is all yours from $740 a couple per weekend, $890 for four people. This is one of a number of high-class properties in the portfolio to be found at www.hawkesburyriver.com

What to do

Snooze, read, fish, snooze, eat at Cottage Point Inn, kayak, snooze, and beat your other half mercilessly at Scrabble.

Where to eat

Wander into the General Store for an al fresco brekkie at the water's edge. The entire island seems to have dinner ($35 ahead) at the Bowls Club - the island's social epicentre - so make sure you book in advance. Go to Cottage Point Inn  - for frankly ridiculously good posh nosh in a location that beggars belief. Book a water taxi (0400 600 111) to take you there - $150 each way. 

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