Mt Warning

Mount Warning, just inland from Tweed Heads, catches the first rays of morning sunshine before anywhere else in Australia. The towering rock formation was formed 20 million years ago by a volcanic eruption and is surrounded by the World Heritage-listed rainforests of Mount Warning National Park.

Captain James Cook named the landmark Mt Warning in 1770 while sailing up the coast to warn future mariners of the dangerous offshore reefs. The local Aboriginal people know the 1156-metre high mountain as Wollumbin (‘cloud-catcher').

Nestled at the base of Mt Warning is the Amazing Wollumbin Palms Retreat. We arrive Friday evening after the mad getaway from work and are greeted by owner Phil, and dog Bella who escort us to our lodge tucked away on the 80-acre rainforest property. We immediately start oohing and aahing over two 300 year-old carved teak ceilings, originally from the palace of a Javanese king.

However it's not until the next morning we fully comprehend our idyllic surrounds. The lodge is completely surrounded by rainforest, and overlooking a tranquil lily pond. We stroll over the bridge for a closer inspection to find a family of platypus playing in the morning sun.

There is an abundance of wildlife, an absense of human noise, and we feel a world away from civilisation. On returning from our explorations, we find a freshly baked loaf waiting for us on the porch, and cook up a breakfast BBQ with fresh OJ and coffee.

Getting there

It's a 30 minute drive inland to Mt Warning from Coolangatta airport, or alternatively you can fly into Ballina-Byron and drive the 40 minutes north. Flights from Sydney are just over an hour - JetStar and Virgin Blue offer regular services. Hire cars are available at both airports.

Where to stay

Amazing Wollumbin Palms contains three luxurious eco lodges, each with a totally unique design. The Kings Lodge, with its exotic Javanese carvings, koi pond, and suspended king-size bed. The Altwood Lodge crafted out of slabs of rock and feel of a cosy hobbit's cave, is tucked into the hillside with amazing views. Then there's Sir Joseph Banks - a 12-sided lodge made from native timbers and reached by a private footbridge, where you can enjoy a outdoor hot shower in the rainforest. It's enough to make romance blossom.
Amazing Wollumbin Palms Retreat, Mount Warning Road Murwillumbah (02 6679 5063 ). Fri/Sat/Sun: $385 per night Mon-Thurs: $345 per night

What to do

In such idyllic surroundings it's tempting to just stay in and submit willingly to the massages and spa treatments offered in the privacy of your lodge.

But it would be a shame not to explore the natural beauty of the area and a hike through Mt Warning National Park is a great way to do this. For the energetic, the summit trek is a challenging 9km trail, a 4-5 hour round trip. We were assured the view from the top is spectacular and well worth the straining calf muscles, particularly at sunrise.

If, like us, you just want to get a sense of the place (without blisters) take the Lyrebird track across the creek to a viewing platform. En route to Byron for some sea air, stop off for a milkshake at the Moo Moo Café in the one-street town of Mooball. You can't miss the cow print electricity poles and buildings.

Where to eat

Two minutes up the road from Wollumbin Palms is Mavis's Kitchen, offering reasonably priced lunches and rustic dinner, with a range of fine local wines and beers. Mavis's Kitchen & Cabins (02 6679 5664). Lunch from 11am Wed-Sun and Dinner Fri & Sat from 5.30pm, dinner $34.50pp for three course meal or $29.50 for two course menu.

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