Go tell it on the Mountains

The Blue Mountains are glorious at any time of year, but winter is when they really come alive. That might seem counter-intuitive since it's absolutely freakin' freezing up there, but that just means it's the perfect place to snuggle up and be pampered.

Aside from anything else, it's a beautiful part of the world. It's hard not to be moved when gazing at the view from Echo Point, with a vista of cliff faces and native forest before you and the Three Sisters to your left. That said, you'll want to rug up warm: even the most ardent lover of natural beauty would last about three bone-chilling minutes without a heavy jacket. For those with adequate coats, there are some spectacular bushwalks, ranging from easy clifftop strolls to full-day hikes.

On previous visits we've curled up on the overstuffed couches in the Mountain Heritage lounge with a book and a stiff cocktail, but this stay coincided with the Winter Ball that heralded the beginning of the tourist season and the annual Winter Magic Festival, which happens on Saturday 21 June with a parade down Katoomba Street. There's a huge range of entertainments - music, street performers, puppetry, a short film festival and loads more - check out the programme at www.wintermagic.com.au - and all official events are free.

Getting there

It's an easy enough drive, but why not just jump on the train? It's two hours to Katoomba from Central, with trains every hour or so and it makes for a thoroughly pleasant weekend, popping up and down the tracks to Leura, Wentworth Falls and the other nearby towns.

Where to stay

There are plenty of fine B&Bs and guesthouses, not to mention backpackers, but for class we recommend one of the grand hotels: The Carrington, The Hydro Majestic or our personal favourite, the Mountain Heritage in Katoomba. It wouldn't be hard to lock yourself down there, dining in the restaurant and luxuriating in the day spa. Their "Christmas in July" celebrations have been a fixture at the hotel since 1980.

What to do

The Explorer Bus offers an all-day hop-on hop-off service around most places of interest. If you desire thrills, River Deep Mountain High offers abseiling packages for daredevils and newcomers (I went from terrified neophyte to enthusiastic ropesman in a single five-metre drop) - all with a gourmet lunch. Those less fond of heights can rifle through Katoomba's superb bookshops: we uncovered many second-hand treasures at Mr Pickwick's. Need hands-on relaxation? The Yindi Day Spa at the Carrington offers couples' spa and massage deal (side-by-side tubs and plenty of pan pipes). Chocoholics must go to Leura's Café Josophans for the Mexican Chocolate Cake.

Where to eat

If you're going up-market, Lilianfels at Echo Point offers exquisite fare. While the hotel itself is sumptuous, it's worth a visit to dine at Tre Sorelle, or at the multi-award-winning Darleys.
Lilianfels. Dinner from 6.30pm Tue-Sat; brunch and lunch available Sun. Two course menu  $78 or three course menu at $98pp.

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