Canberra

Canberra became Australia's official capital in 1913 - the civilised settlement of a long catfight between Sydney and Melbourne as to who should wield the nation's ultimate power and from where it should be wierlded. Of course, the real power lay in the land itself, which for 21,000 years had been ruled and nourished by the Ngunnawal and Walgalu tribes for whom Kanbarra meant "meeting place" - epicentre of huge corroborees during the seasonal migration of the Ngunawal to feast on the Bogong moths every spring.

Today, it's the site of many a cultural corroboree. Built on the model of a garden city (and now known globally as the "bush capital"), Canberra has flowered into a thriving heartland of galleries and museums, restaurants and cafes, bars and microbreweries. Home to 340,000 young and vibrant residents - the average age of a Canberran is just 32 - the entire city is keyed to power and pleasure pursuits: and beyond the cerebral veneer of monuments like the War memorial, National Gallery and Parliament House lies a hotbed of nightclubs, gig venues and festivals running all year round.

Geographically, Canberra is stunning - deftly designed streets and boulevards and all of it based on the grandeur of three surrounding peaks, Mount Ainslie, Black Mountain and Bimberi Peak (a plan to cover each in a flower of a different colour never came to fruition, alas) - and easy to navigate. At times it looks like the hand of God reached down and gave it a once over with a Chux super-wipe - pristine environments, clean air, tree-lined streets and open lands for sports arenas and parks.

Soak in the sights

On a clear day, viewed from Mount Ainslie, the Black Mountain Tower or the basket of a hot-air balloon, Canberra is stately, elegant and positively Washingtonesque. Back on the ground, flat terrains, plenty of cycle paths, negligible traffic and having most of the sights within easy pedalling distance makes biking a perfect way to soak in the sights. Be sure to cycle around the central artificial Lake Burley Griffin (a two-hour ride).

Culture a la Canberra

The National Museum of Australia which opened in 2001, was the first official museum dedicated to the nation of Australia. It utilises state-of-the-art technology and hands-on exhibits to take visitors through Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander cultures as well as Australian societal history since 1788. Nearby is Australia's foremost art institution, the National Gallery of Australia, which houses impressive collections of international, Australian, Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander art, as well as major exhibitions from overseas that often bypass Sydney and attract art lovers to Canberra at least three times a year.

Landmarks

Opened in 1988, Parliament House looks like an oversized urban wigwam from afar - thanks to an 81-metre (265-foot) stainless-steel flagpole. While it dominates Canberra's landscape, its grassy roof allows people to stand above their elected representatives and in essence rise above them! Inside displays of Australian art and photographs as well as interesting free-guided tours take place every 30 minutes from 9am to 4pm. Nearby, enjoying her twilight years sits Old Parliament House, Australia's seat of democracy from 1927 to 1988. You can't leave Canberra without a visit as this iconic building also houses The National Portrait Gallery and the National Archives of Australia.

Where to stay & eat

Canberra has one of the highest room-occupancy rates in Australia, so book in advance of your intended stay.

Brassey Hotel Belmore Gardens, Barton (6273 3766) Rates from $125. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. An historic boutique hotel within walking distance of most attractions.

The Chairman and Yip108 Bunda St Canberra (6248 7109) Licensed $80pp. Top dog mod-Chinese and a big fave of pollies and diplomats.

Canberra City YHA 7 Akuna Street, Canberra City (6248 9155). Rates from $25 dorm; $80 double/twin.Credit MC, V. Opened in 2006, Australia's newest YHA has its own pub, café, pool, spa and sauna.

The Phoenix 21 East Row Canberra (6247 1606) Gutsy bar with grassroots theatre and music and a great thirst-inducing vibe.

Medina Classic Canberra 11 Giles Street, Kingston (6239 8100) Rates from $149. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Minutes from Parliament House in fashionable Kingston, the Medina has comfy good-value one-, two- and three-bedroom suites. Heated pool, spa and gym too.

Artespresso 31 Giles St Kingston 2604 (6295 8055) The best croque monsieur and coffee in the capital!

Getting there

By car Canberra is 288km (179 miles) south of Sydney. Take M5 motorway connecting with the Hume Highway (Route 31); turn off to Canberra on Federal Highway beyond Goulburn. Journey time: up to 3.5hrs. By air Canberra has a small domestic airport about 15mins drive from the city centre. Both Qantas (131313) and Virgin Blue (13 6789) fly there several times a day; the trip from Sydney takes 30-40mins. Book flights to Canberra.

By trainCountryLink's very handy Xplorer train service (13 2232) runs from Central Station to Canberra and back again three times a day. The trip takes just over 4hrs.

Tourist informationCanberra Visitor Centre 330 Northbourne Avenue, Dickson (1300 554114 or 6205 0044/ accommodation 1300 733 228) Open 9am-5pm Mon-Fri; 9am- 4pm Sat, Sun.

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