As wine regions go, the Margaret River is certainly not Australia's oldest or most established, nor is it the easiest to reach. But what it lacks in age or proximity is more than matched with quality, because the wine and produce that is coming out of Australia's southwest is some of the finest this great land has to offer.
The vineyards
There are more than 70 cellar doors you can visit in the greater Margaret River wine region, meaning you could spend weeks on end and still not sip every third wine. So, when in doubt stick with some of the best - in this case, that includes Capel Vale, Cape Mentelle, Leeuwin Estate, Evans and Tate, Wise, Lenton Brae, Moss Wood and Vasse Felix. Many feature spectacular surrounds, from the coastal waters viewable from Wise to the outlook over the vineyards from the cellar doors and restaurants at Capel Vale and Vasse Felix.
While many wine connoisseurs will say the two drops to always taste are Cabernet blends and Chardonnays, it is hard to go past a Margaret River shiraz, particularly the current vintage from Vasse Felix. Other wines to sample on the wine trail include the Wise Wines Tokay, Capel Vale Geographe Sangiovese and the Lenton Brae Semillon Sauvignon Blanc - in my opinion one of this region's top drops for the variety. Capel Vale Mallokup Rd, Capel, WA 6271. (08 9727 1986).Lenton Brae Estate 3887 Caves Rd, Wilyabrup, WA 6280. (08 9755 6255). Vasse Felix Cnr Caves Rd & Harmans Rd South, Cowaramup, WA 6284. (08 9756 5000). Wise Wines 80 Eagle Bay Rd, Dunsborough, WA 6281. (08 9756 8627).
Where to eat
With a dedication to sourcing and cooking with stunning local produce - including seafood, game and vegetables - it's no wonder several restaurants in the Margaret River are recognised as some of Western Australia's finest. While many wineries feature a restaurant, none come finer than Vasse Felix, an eatery that consistently rates in Australia's top 20. Headed by executive chef Aaron Carr, the food on the menu reads more like a best-of-the-best local produce list. Hero dishes include a rabbit, pork and duck liver ballantine; freshly caught soft shell crab; roast pork belly; venison and smoked oyster pie; and a crispy duck and grilled eggplant yellow curry.The local 34 Degrees South olive oil with the restaurant's home-made sourdough is also a must, as is matching wines with each course (especially the duck curry and the 2006 Vasse Felix Shiraz). Vasse FelixCnr Caves Rd & Harmans Rd South, Cowaramup, WA 6284. (08 9756 5000).
Where to drink
In years gone by, all of the drinking in the region was done at cellar doors, winery restaurants and the handful of local pubs scattered down the coastline. That all changed seven months ago when hip Mt Lawley establishment Must opened a Margaret River outpost to the delight of many cashed-up Perth locals who consistently visit the region. A large selection of local wines (try the 2007 Fraser Gallop's Chardonnay) is well complemented by some serious international drops, classic cocktails and bar snacks. If a local chardonnay or shiraz won't do the trick, then slurp on a bottle of Peregrine Pinot Noir from Central Otago NZ, a Hemingway Daiquiri and some chargrilled Moorish spiced beef skewers. If you're still peckish after the cellar-door visits, then also order the rock lobster croquetas or the rillettes of pork and challenge to bar manager to shake up a good Cuban Berry Mule. Must 107 Bussell Hwy, Margaret River, WA 6285. (08 9758 8877).
More than wine
Any map of the region will point out over 50 top surf breaks, so if it's surfing or relaxing on the beach you want to do, then Margaret River is also ideal for just that. From Dunsborough to Augusta, you could walk for kilometres and find seemingly never-ending sandy beaches - some that come complete with a shipwreck or two. The region also offers a plethora of family-friendly activities and places to visit, particularly the Margaret River Chocolate Company and the Melting Pot Glass Studio. The latter will intrigue the kids (and adults for that matter) to no end, as artist Gerry Reilly showcases the finer details of blowing glass before giving guests a chance to try a hand themselves. It's also a stone's throw from Must and a great way to end a day in the wineries. Margaret River Chocolate Company Cnr Harman's Mill Rd & Harman's South Rd, Metricup, WA 6280. (08 9755 6555). Melting Pot Glass Studio 91 Bussell Hwy, Margaret River, WA 6285. (08 9757 2252).
Where to stay
The Margaret River region offers a range of motels, hotels and resorts across the entire 3- to 5-star spectrum. Located a short drive from the Cape Naturaliste lighthouse and 10 minutes from Dunsborough, the 5-star Quay West Resort Bunker Bay features 150 bungalow-style villas right on the Indian Ocean. The ideal location to be based for exploring the Margaret River, Quay West also features a day spa, pool, gym, spa, bar and award-winning restaurant, the Other Side of the Moon, that's well worth the booking in advance. Chef Sven Hug sources produce from across the region, including the highly sought-after Manjimup truffles that continue to be the toast of Australia's South West. Quay West Resort Bunker BayBunker Bay Rd, Bunker Bay, WA 6281. (08 9756 9100).
How to get there
Jetstar, Qantas and Virgin Blue fly to Perth from Sydney. The Margaret River is then a three-hour drive from Perth International Airport - a trip that will be soon shorted to just over two and a half hours when a new freeway opens later this year.
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