Verona

See

Verona knows perfectly well wherefore it is popular: a history going back to the Romans, a position that made it a prize in European and Italian power struggles, and some of the finest Roman, Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance architecture you'll find anywhere on the peninsula. But ask anyone apart from a veronese about the city and what's the answer? Romeo and Juliet. So, yes, there's a balcony too.

The Arena (+39 045 000 3204) dominates the entrance to the thumb-shaped old town in piazza Brà. The largest Roman amphitheatre in northern Italy, the Arena seated the city's whole population of 20,000 when it was constructed in about AD 30 from pink marble quarried from nearby hills. After the earthquake of 117 destroyed most of the outer ring, the city repaired the damage almost immediately. Verona's later Venetian overlords, recognising the historic and thus financial value of the building, made it illegal to pilfer the ancient stone, and carried out regular maintenance work. Today, it hosts large-scale opera performances.

The old town, framed by the serpentine Adige River, stretches out from piazza Brà. A short distance northwest, by Ponte Scagliero, is the Castelvecchio (‘old castle') of Verona's della Scala family, the medieval rulers. The della Scalas invested in magnificent art, thick walls and an escape route - Ponte Scagliero - over the river. The other bridge, the Ponte Pietra, dates to Roman times. Both were destroyed by retreating Germans in 1945 and were carefully restored after the war. Today the castle holds a museum (+39 045 806 2611), with works by Pisanello, Veronese and Tintoretto.

The heart of the city is formed by adjoining squares piazza delle Erbe and piazza dei Signori, a short walk northeast from piazza Brà. Once the site of the Roman forum, piazza delle Erbe is today the site of a somewhat tacky food and souvenirs market (Mon-Sat mornings) but is surrounded by magnificent buildings. The adjoining piazza dei Signori was the centre for medieval Verona's finance and government.

A detour southeast from piazza delle Erbe along via Cappello leads to the Casa di Giulietta (Juliet's house). The Capulet family of Romeo and Juliet fame did exist, although they never lived in this building (via Cappello 23, +39 045 803 4303). Still, tourists fill the small courtyard, gazing at a balcony, which was actually erected in the 1920s to give them all something to see. Romeo's house - which may have actually belonged to the Montague family - is not open to the public; it's just across from della Scala tombs at via delle Arche Scaligere 4. Of the many churches in Verona, the most atmospheric is San Zeno Maggiore (piazza San Zeno, +39 045 800 6120). Built in the 12th century to house the remains of African St Zeno, Verona's first bishop and patron saint, its graceful nave is a swirl of marble sculptures and frescoes. Tourist Information: via degli Alpini 9, piazza Brà. (+39 045 806 8680).

Festivals

From June to September Verona is packed for the opera season at the Arena. Italy's most important wine fair, Vinitaly (+39 045 829 8111), is in early April. 

Eat & Drink

Verona's cuisine combines Italian sensibilities with middle-European heft. Menu favourites include sausages and cured meats, bigoli (hearty spaghetti often served with anchovies or duck) and Verona's beloved pastizada de caval, braised horse meat. Tre Marchetti (vicolo Tre Marchetti, 19B, +39 045 803 0463), round the corner from the Arena, has been serving food since 1291, while Osteria al Duomo (via Duomo 7A, +39 045 800, 4505) is the place to blend in with the Verona crowd. The menu at tiny Ostaria La Stueta (via Redentore 4B, +39 045 803 2462) is limited but unfailingly delicious. Off via Mazzini, Ristorante Greppia (vicolo Samaritana 3, +39 045 800 4577) boasts some of the best food in Verona, and Gelateria Pampanin (via Garibaldi 24, +39 045 803 0064) has Verona's best gelato. A pleasant spot for a drink on a quiet piazza San Zeno is Al Mascaron (No. 16, +39 045 597 081).

Stay

Hotels tend to be very traditional in style. In piazza delle Erbe you'll find the charming Hotel Aurora (+39 045 594 717), which is a family-run affair. The Hotel Antica Porta Leona (Corticella Leona 3, +39 045 595 499) and the Hotel Bologna (piazzetta Scalette Rubiani 3, +39 045 800 6830) are also good value. For those who have some extra cash to splash out, the elegant Due Torri Hotel (piazza Sant'Anastasia 4, +39 045 595 0444) has hosted both Beethoven and Goethe. At the other end of the spectrum, Campeggio Castel San Pietro (via Castel San Pietro 2, +39 045 592 037) offers seasonal camping a 15-minute walk from the centre of Verona. CAV, the Verona Hotel Cooperative (via Patuzzi 5, +39 045 800 9844), runs a free hotel reservations bureau.

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Nearby

For the active, the Adige valley leads on into the glorious hiking trails of the Dolomite mountains, while the serene waters of beautiful Lake Garda beckon to the east. Those wanting a dose of culture rather than nature should take the train to either Milan or Venice, both of which are only about 90 minutes from Verona. More information.

Get there

British Airways flies to Verona from Sydney via London Gatwick. BA flies twice daily to the British capital from Sydney via Bangkok or Singapore and onward to Verona, with a very good connection time from the Sydney services. The airline's new Club World (Business) has the best seats on the route but World Traveller Plus (premium economy) is a good value proposition.

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For your chance to win, sign up for a new 24-month consumer Post-Paid mobile $59 Freedom Connect Plan and complete the online entry form at telstra.com/ballet.

Prize includes:

2 return flights to Melbourne for the World premiere of Romeo & Juliet, with five star accomodation for one night; and

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Banner Photography: Robyn Hendricks & Ty King-Wall, photo by Paul Empson

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